Alpine Climbing: Jasper’s Gems

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Proposal Peak – 9-11hrs NW ridge grade II 5.6

Proposal peak is a relatively short alpine rock route on limestone at the South end of Medicine lake. A half hour drive from the town of Jasper gets us to the parking area. From here we must hike up steep treed slopes (off trail) to the base of the ridge. There are 7 short pitches of technical rock climbing up to 5.6. This gets us half way to the summit. Short pitches of scrambling intermixed with ridge walking gains the summit towers. 4 separate exposed towers each about 20m tall gains a beautiful summit with views from Mt Robson to the Columbia Icefields. The descent down the East ridge requires some scrambling and the odd rappel. A great introduction to the Alpine world!

Equipment list for day rock climbing

 

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (long pants help protect the knees while climbing)
  • Lightweight hiking boots (above the ankle)
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • I can provide rock shoes, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up rock shoes from Gravity Gear the day before the climb

 

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

Peveril Peak – 10-12 hrs NE ridge grade II 5.6

Peveril peak is a rugged looking peak on the way to Maccarib pass in the Tonquin Valley. We access the trail by driving up the Marmot Basin ski hill road (30 min drive from Jasper townsite). Roughly 1.5 hrs up the trail is the base of the ridgeline. The climbing is on quartzite (my favorite type of rock for climbing) and generally no harder than 5.5. Short pitches of technical climbing interspersed with scrambling gain an airy summit overlooking some of the most spectacular mountain scenery around. The descent is mostly a walk/scramble back to the trail.

Equipment list for alpine rock climbing

 

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (long pants help protect the knees while climbing)
  • Lightweight mountaineering boots. We will be climbing in mountaineering boots rather than rock shoes.
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • I can provide a harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

Mt. Edith Cavell 3363m – 12-15hrs E ridge grade II 5.3

One of the best alpine ridge climbs in Canada! This can also be done as a 2 day trip. Prior alpine climbing experience necessary. Do it!

Equipment list for alpine climbing

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (long pants help protect the knees while climbing)
  • Lightweight mountaineering boots. We will be climbing in mountaineering boots rather than rock shoes.
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • Headlamp
  • I can provide an ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up crampons, and an ice axe from Gravity Gear the day before the course if you don’t have your own

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

Mt. Geraldine 2910m – 12-15hrs NE.ridge grade II 5.4

Another classic ridge climb that rivals the East ridge of Cavell! Beautiful quartzite rock climbing with views of the Clemenceau Icefield on our way up. There’s a lot of climbing on this one, both on the way up and the way down.

Equipment list for alpine rock climbing

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (long pants help protect the knees while climbing)
  • Lightweight mountaineering boots. We will be climbing in mountaineering boots rather than rock shoes.
  • Headlamp
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • I can provide a harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

Mt Colin – 2 or 3 – Colin traverse grade III 5.6

Another Jasper classic that takes us to the Colin hut. A quaint little alpine club hut built for climbers. The hike into the hut itself is a 3-5 hour journey. From the hut the climbs up the face go up a marathon of rock (19 pitches of 5.4 to 5.7 of continuous climbing take us directly to the summit!). Alternatively the Colin traverse follows a sharp and exposed ridge line with sections of scrambling and short pitches of up to 5.6 technical climbing.

Equipment list for overnight alpine rock climbing

  • Overnight pack large enough for spare clothing, 3 days food, climbing equipment, sleeping bag, and toiletries.
  • 3 days of food (inquire about catered trips.)
  • Sleeping bag good to -5 Celsius.
  • Toiletries
  • Headlamp
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (long pants help protect the knees while climbing)
  • Lightweight mountaineering boots.
  • Collapsible trekking pole
  • I can provide rock shoes, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up rock shoes from Gravity Gear the day before the trip.

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

Mt. Athabasca 3491m – 8-11hrs N glacier route grade II

The most climbed mountain in Canada. An absolute classic mountaineering ascent. Incredible access make this huge peak a perfect day trip. This peak requires an ‘alpine’ start which is a polite way of saying we need to wake up in the middle of the night to get up and down the glaciers before the heat of the day. Cooler temperatures help to keep the snow firm, which provides better and safer climbing conditions. For this reason we will meet the day before our climb to go over equipment, mountain conditions and safety (3-4 hours of instruction). Options for accommodation at the Columbia Icefields are at the hotel, camping, or at one of three hostels. The Hilda creek hostel would be the closest. Beauty creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive north of the Icefields and Rampart creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive south of the Icefields. You will be responsible for your own transportation, accommodation and food.

Equipment list for alpine climbing

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen are an absolute must
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (Glaciers are cold so think winter as we will be on snow and ice)
  • Wool hat and 2 pairs of gloves (It’s easy for 1 pair to get wet in the summer)
  • Gaiters
  • I can provide mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up mountaineering boots, crampons, and an ice axe from Gravity Gear the day before the trip if you don’t have your own

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

Mt Athabasca – 10-12 hrs N face route grade III WI2 M3

The most climbed mountain in Canada. The North face has been a test piece since it’s first ascent in 1971. This long ice face has 1 rockband near the top which seems to grow in length every year with glacial recession, making it increasingly challenging. Don’t wait to climb this one. This peak requires an ‘alpine’ start which is a polite way of saying we need to wake up in the middle of the night to get up and down the glaciers before the heat of the day. Cooler temperatures help to keep the snow firm and the rocks in place, which provides better and safer climbing conditions. For this reason we will meet the day before our climb to go over equipment, mountain conditions and safety (3-4 hours of instruction). Options for accommodation at the Columbia Icefields are at the hotel, camping, or at one of three hostels. The Hilda creek hostel would be the closest. Beauty creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive north of the Icefields and Rampart creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive south of the Icefields. You will be responsible for your own transportation, accommodation and food. Previous ice climbing and mountaineering experience is required.

Equipment list for alpine climbing

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen are an absolute must
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (Glaciers are cold so think winter as we will be on snow and ice)
  • Wool hat and 2 pairs of gloves (It’s easy for 1 pair to get wet in the summer)
  • Gaiters
  • I can provide mountaineering boots, crampons, ice tools, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up mountaineering boots, crampons, and ice tools from Gravity Gear the day before the trip if you don’t have your own

Cost

See Pricing & Booking.

A2 – 6-9hrs Boundary glacier route grade II

A2 is a fantastic peak giving a compact full mountain experience. A beautiful flat top summit with grand views of Mt. Athabasca and the surrounding area. This peak has it all from glacier travel to steep snow and ice to technical rock climbing. This peak requires an ‘alpine’ start which is a polite way of saying we need to wake up in the middle of the night to get up and down the glaciers before the heat of the day. Cooler temperatures help to keep the snow firm, which provides better and safer climbing conditions. For this reason we will meet the day before our climb to go over equipment, mountain conditions and safety (3-4 hours of instruction). Options for accommodation at the Columbia Icefields are at the hotel, camping, or at one of three hostels. The Hilda creek hostel would be the closest. Beauty creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive north of the Icefields and Rampart creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive south of the Icefields. You will be responsible for your own transportation, accommodation and food.

Equipment list for alpine climbing

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen are an absolute must
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (Glaciers are cold so think winter as we will be on snow and ice)
  • Wool hat and 2 pairs of gloves (It’s easy for 1 pair to get wet in the summer)
  • Gaiters
  • I can provide mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up mountaineering boots, crampons, and ice axe from Gravity Gear the day before the trip if you don’t have your own.

Cost:

See Pricing & Booking.

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