Mt Athabasca – 10-12 hrs N face route grade III WI2 M3

The most climbed mountain in Canada. The North face has been a test piece since it’s first ascent in 1971. This long ice face has 1 rockband near the top which seems to grow in length every year with glacial recession, making it increasingly challenging. Don’t wait to climb this one. This peak requires an ‘alpine’ start which is a polite way of saying we need to wake up in the middle of the night to get up and down the glaciers before the heat of the day. Cooler temperatures help to keep the snow firm and the rocks in place, which provides better and safer climbing conditions. For this reason we will meet the day before our climb to go over equipment, mountain conditions and safety (3-4 hours of instruction). Options for accommodation at the Columbia Icefields are at the hotel, camping, or at one of three hostels. The Hilda creek hostel would be the closest. Beauty creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive north of the Icefields and Rampart creek Hostel is a 20 minute drive south of the Icefields. You will be responsible for your own transportation, accommodation and food. Previous ice climbing and mountaineering experience is required.

Equipment list for alpine climbing

  • Daypack large enough for spare clothing, lunch, climbing equipment
  • Lunch and water
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen are an absolute must
  • Rain gear
  • Clothing suitable for the weather (Glaciers are cold so think winter as we will be on snow and ice)
  • Wool hat and 2 pairs of gloves (It’s easy for 1 pair to get wet in the summer)
  • Gaiters
  • I can provide mountaineering boots, crampons, ice tools, harness, helmet and all technical climbing equipment
  • You will need to pick up mountaineering boots, crampons, and ice tools from Gravity Gear the day before the trip if you don’t have your own


See Pricing & Booking.